Walking in Smugglers’ Footsteps: The Begur to Palamós Camí de Ronda
Looking for a coastal walk that blends wild beauty with compelling history? The Begur to Palamós Camí de Ronda delivers both. This classic stretch of the Costa Brava’s patrol paths leads you past turquoise coves and headlands while tracing a route once used to intercept and transport contraband. In this guide, you’ll learn what makes the Begur to Palamós Camí de Ronda special, where to stop, how to prepare, and how to enrich your day with nearby experiences.
What is the Camí de Ronda?
The Camí de Ronda is a long-distance network of coastal paths along the Costa Brava, following an ancestral route that links coastal towns between Blanes and Portbou. Historically patrolled to control maritime smuggling, today it’s a superb hiking experience across narrow paths, undulating terrain, seafront promenades, beaches, and occasional moderately technical sections. You can enjoy it year-round with the right preparation.
Quick answer (for featured snippets)
- The Camí de Ronda is a coastal hiking route on the Costa Brava that once served as patrol paths against smuggling.
- The Begur to Palamós section passes secret coves and places associated with historic smugglers’ hideouts.
- Terrain varies from cliff-hugging paths to easy promenades; good footwear and water are essential.
A brief history: why these patrol paths exist
In 1829, the Spanish Royal Coastal and Border Police Corps (Real Cuerpo de Carabineros de Costas y Fronteras) was established to fight fraud and smuggling. Carabiniers were tasked with “making the rounds” along these very paths to intercept contraband.
At night, smugglers rowed out in small boats to meet larger ships offshore, ferried goods into secluded coves, hid them in coastal hideouts, and then moved them inland on the patrol paths—avoiding the Carabineros and the Civil Guard. The goods ranged from blonde tobacco, penicillin, coffee, sugar, pepper, and chocolate to makeup, lingerie, jewellery, and silk clothing. Walking here today means literally following in those historical footsteps.
Highlights between Begur and Palamós
This shoreline is rich in coves and cliffs, with several emblematic stops tied to the coast’s smuggling lore. Moving southward or northward, make time for these memorable spots:
| Stop | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Port d’Esclanyà cove | A secluded cove associated with the area’s smuggling hideouts and operations. |
| Sa Perica chalet (Tamariu) | An emblematic landmark on the route’s smuggling narrative. |
| Tabac cave | Its very name evokes the contraband era; part of the route’s coastal lore. |
| Cau cove | A quiet inlet on the smugglers’ coastline. |
| Frares cove (at the foot of Cap de Sant Sebastià) | Dramatic setting beneath the Cap de Sant Sebastià cliff. |
| Golfet beach | A scenic beach on this storied stretch of coast. |
Note: Access conditions and path options can vary along the coast; follow posted waymarks and use established paths.
What to expect on the trail
- Varied terrain: Expect a blend of narrow cliffside paths, staircases, pine-scented stretches, promenades near town, and some completely flat sections.
- Continuous ups and downs: The path undulates, sometimes with moderately technical steps or rocky sections.
- All-season appeal: With the right gear, you can walk any time of year. Off-peak seasons offer quieter paths and softer light.
- Coastal panoramas: Frequent viewpoints showcase headlands, coves, and the open Mediterranean.
How to structure your Begur to Palamós day
There are many ways to enjoy this section. Choose an approach that fits your time and energy.
Option 1: Highlights-focused hike
- Start near Begur’s coastline and pick a sequence of the coves listed above.
- Build in unhurried stops for viewpoints and photography.
- Finish in or near Palamós for a relaxed seaside meal or museum visit.
Option 2: Extended walk with cultural add-ons
- Combine the hike with a coastal heritage stop in Palamós. If you feel up to it at the end of your route, you can top off your day with a visit to the Fishing Museum in Palamós.
- Explore a local promenade walk such as Palamós, Ronda de Mar.
Add experiences that elevate your route
Make your Begur to Palamós Camí de Ronda more immersive by pairing the walk with curated local experiences:
- In Begur:
- Yoga and breakfast buffet at Hotel Sa Punta.
- Discover the Mediterranean by boat (Hotel Finca Victoria).
- Along the mid-coast:
- Secret Coves and Traditional Cuisine (CAMí DE RONDA) in Calella de Palafrugell.
- In Palamós:
- Palamós, Ronda de Mar (Oficina de Turisme de Palamós).
- Fish Auction Visit (MUSEU DE LA PESCA - ESPAI DEL PEIX).
- Would you like to learn to sail with the champions (CLUB NàUTIC COSTA BRAVA VELA PALAMóS).
These experiences align naturally with a coastal day—start with an early yoga session, hike the Camí de Ronda, and wind down with maritime culture or a boat activity.
Self-guided route options nearby (if you want more)
If the Begur–Palamós section whets your appetite, consider longer self-guided itineraries designed to showcase the Costa Brava:
- 43 km linear route: Sant Feliu de Guíxols to Begur.
- 140 km circular route: Beginning and ending in Girona.
These multi-stage options include alternatives to tailor difficulty and time, and on departure you will receive a welcome pack with support from accommodation and luggage transfer services—so you can focus on the hike itself.
Practical takeaways and safety tips
Walking coastal paths demands the same respect as any mountain outing.
- Footwear: Wear sturdy hiking shoes with good grip.
- Hydration and food: Carry plenty of water and snacks; refill when passing through towns.
- Layers: Pack an extra warm layer; sea breezes can change conditions quickly.
- Phone: Keep a mobile phone on hand for emergencies.
- Navigation: Follow waymarks and official paths. Clifftop shortcuts are unsafe and harmful to fragile ecosystems.
- Pacing: The route includes frequent climbs and descents; plan conservative time windows and build in rest stops.
- Respect the coast: Take all litter with you; stay on marked trails to protect vegetation and prevent erosion.
What to bring (checklist)
- Lightweight daypack
- Sturdy walking shoes
- Water (and a way to top up)
- Snacks or a picnic
- Sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses)
- Light warm layer or windbreaker
- Mobile phone (charged)
Frequently asked questions
Is the Begur to Palamós Camí de Ronda suitable for beginners?
It mixes easy promenades with narrow paths and moderately technical sections. Newer hikers can enjoy selected highlights and flatter segments; experienced hikers may opt for longer, hillier stretches. Good footwear and pacing are essential for everyone.
When is the best time to walk it?
The Camí de Ronda can be enjoyed at any time of year with proper preparation. Off-peak months often bring milder temperatures and quieter paths.
What makes the Begur–Palamós section unique?
It threads together scenic coves—such as Port d’Esclanyà, the Sa Perica chalet in Tamariu, Tabac cave, Cau cove, Frares cove beneath Cap de Sant Sebastià, and Golfet beach—linked to the area’s smuggling history.
Sample day itinerary (flexible)
- Morning: Start near Begur’s coastline; warm up on an easier section leading to your first cove.
- Mid-morning: Pause at a panoramic point; continue to one or two coves from the highlights list.
- Afternoon: Follow marked paths toward Palamós, choosing promenades where you prefer flatter ground.
- Late afternoon: Explore Palamós, Ronda de Mar or visit the Fishing Museum if you still have energy.
Why this route belongs on your list
- History underfoot: You’re walking a living timeline—from carabiniers’ patrols to modern coastal hiking.
- Coves and cliffs: The interplay of rugged rock and calm inlets defines the Costa Brava’s character.
- Flexible format: Dip into short segments or link multiple coves for a full-day outing.
- Local add-ons: Coastal culture, gastronomy, and maritime experiences round out the day.
Extend your knowledge
- For broader planning inspiration, download the e-book: Hiking the Costa Brava Coastal Paths.
- Explore related cultural and active experiences across the Costa Brava to tailor your trip.
Conclusion
The Begur to Palamós Camí de Ronda is a coastal classic—equal parts scenery and story. From Port d’Esclanyà to Golfet, every cove hints at the clandestine routes that once crisscrossed these cliffs. Lace up, pack smart, and let the path’s undulating rhythm guide your day.
Ready to plan your walk? Start by mapping your must-see coves, then add one or two local experiences—such as Palamós, Ronda de Mar or the Fish Auction Visit—to deepen your connection to the coast. Download the e-book “Hiking the Costa Brava Coastal Paths” and build your perfect Begur to Palamós Camí de Ronda itinerary today.